Sunday 22 October 2017

Last cruise for 2017 - 22 October 2017

Last cruise of the year to refill the tank before the hibernation in Wasahamnen. It is 7°C, but there is a nice low sun to accompany us. It takes forever to add the adjuvant for diesel in each of the tanks and to fill the tanks 50 litres by 50 litres, as the automat only delivers 50 litres at a time on a credit card. And the tanks are totalling 540 litres... Well, the tanks were not empty and it took only five runs to fill them up.


On the way back, we parked Belisama in the corner where she will be for the winter, same place as last year.

Wednesday 6 September 2017

Hunting for submarines along Muskö - 2 & 3 September 2017

Muskö is an island that we love for its mushrooms. But Muskö used to be hosting one of the largest military base in Sweden, since the 1950s' when it was constructed, until 2004 when the base was closed. It still hosts a large military camp, and Muskö is across the mainland where the Swedish admiralty is located. With heavy face winds, cold weather, 55 miles to go (to Stockholm) and a late departure because of morning mushroom picking, we decided to go on engine through the narrow passage along the inner shore of the Muskö former submarine base, still being a restricted access sensitive area.

A bit scary...

Monday 4 September 2017

A mushroom party - 28 August - 3 September

The weekend for the cousinades was particularly nice in Nåttarö. There were still a few boats in the Östermarsfladen despite the fact that school had started again. Over the weekend, we had good weather, good (sous vide) food, good company, good wine and good singing! 

Belisama entering Östermarsfladen, Nåttarö
But we had particularly good mushrooming!

Thursday 24 August 2017

CouCou 2017 Day 0 - Tacking our way to Nynäshamn, 24 August 2017

Les cousinades Coulombier 2017 (CouCou2017) débutent demain... La moitié des tribus est déjà en ville, mais certaines sont retardées dans leur transhumance. Belisama ce matin a quitté Wasahamnen avec les soutes remplies de victuailles. Destimation Nynäshamn pour accueillir les belles...



Monday 21 August 2017

Back to Wasahamnen - 20 August 2017

After 6 weeks of tough weather and a rainy Saturday, today was probably the first summer day this year. Yet quite cold, but sunny. With a nice 8 m/s back wind, we cruise over 7 knots towards Stockholm, in order to have the boat there  in order to welcome the first participants in "Coucou 2017" taking place at the end of this week.

Belisama leaving Nynäsham, Nåttarö on the left.

Saturday 19 August 2017

Coucou... Cousinades Coulombier - 19 août 2017

Chers tous, des nouvelles de la préparation des cousinades. Nous venons d'arriver à Nynäshamn ce soir, par les transports en commun puisque nous remontons Belisama à Stockholm demain dans la journée afin de charger tout ce dont nous aurons besoin à Nåttarö, mais aussi de nous servir d'appartement alors que la tribu M sera dans nos murs.
Stockholm city
Deux points important pour compléter les instructions envoyées ce matin...

Sunday 13 August 2017

Nåttarö, preparing for the "cousinades" - 12 & 13 August 2017

Exceptionnellement, ce post sera en français car il s'adresse aux "cousins" qui viendront participer aux cousinades que nous tenons à Nåttarö à la fin du mois.


Voici le ponton au nord-est de l'île. Le barbecue du samedi se déroulera autour de cette plage. Belisama fait toujours sensation dans cette petite baie peu profonde, car les autres bateaux nous voyant approcher avec un pavillon français pensent que nous n'avons pas réalisé qu'il n'y a qu'un mètre cinquante de fond ici. Mais nous n'avons qu'un mètre de tirant d'eau...

Monday 7 August 2017

Visby to Nynäshamn - 6 August 2017

After having reached Visby last week, we left Belisama at the fiskhamn and took the ferry to be at work for the week. Our friends stayed in Visby in the boat to enjoy the island. By Friday 4 August, we made it back to Visby to get the boat back to Stockholm.
Belisama on her way from Visby to Nynäshamn, 5 August 2017
But this was planned counting on fair weather conditions. Which was not the case... It is always surprising to see how calm the sea looks taken in picture from the big Gotland ferry, when the wind rages over 15m/s!

Saturday 29 July 2017

From Kalmar to Visby, through Grankullavik - 27 to 29 July 2017

With the new crew in charge, we took a ride from Kalmar to Visby, with a stopover in Grankullavik, at the northern tip of Öland and where we had been on our way down south in late May.

9 knots average under spinnaker...

Thursday 27 July 2017

A nice ride back to Utklippan - 26 July 2017

From Sölvesborg, a good lateral wind brings us quite rapidly along the 42 miles to Utklippan. For the first time in a week, we see some sun getting through the clouds.

Wednesday 26 July 2017

Catch-up post since 20 July... 26 July 2017

Well, since 20 July in Rødvig, we have swallowed probably 300 miles and 3 gales. Quite a bad weather on our way to Copenhagen to pick a friend couple and get back to Sweden. And quite an unfriendly weather since. From Rødvig to Copenhagen, we experienced probably the thickest fog we have ever encountered. Impossible to see anything before too late, unless you navigate through the radar. Thanks to the radar...

Thursday 20 July 2017

Klintholm to Rødvig, through Vordingborg - 19-20 July 2017

After years in Sweden, one gets amazed as soon as seing colours in the fields. Denmark is part of continental Europe, and I am getting the same feeling I have when driving from Sweden to southern Europe, that continental Europe starts in Denmark. I realise that I am missing it when I see it, but not at all when I don't. Isn't it perfect?

Blooming fields around Klintholm.

Tuesday 18 July 2017

Sassnitz to Denmark - 16 July 2017

Where in Denmark? The initial plan was to reach Klintholm, on the island of Møn, Denmark, a 52 nautical miles ride from Sassnitz. The weather forecast looked very fine, with South-West winds from 5 to 6 m/s in the morning up to 8 to 10 m/s in the afternoon. Belisama was flying above 7 knots on average for the first hours. Then the wind got much stronger, around 12 m/s, with gusts up to 15. Three reefs and the trinquette handled it nicely, but the sallow waters around the south-east point of Møn resulted in short cresting waves very unpleasant. We decided to finish on engine, for safety reasons, when entering the shallow waters resulting in cresting waves at the southeast point of the island. 


But the engine did not start...

Saturday 15 July 2017

Last day in Sassnitz - 15 July

The whole crew is back and we are eager to depart from Sassnitz to Klinteholm, Denmark. However, the forecast was for a fantastic sunny day, without significant wind, and if wind, right in the nose... While tomorrow, we should have lateral good wind all the way for the 50+ miles. No hesitation, but another day in Sassnitz!


Friday 14 July 2017

First solo cruise, from Sassnitz to ... Sassnitz - 12 July 2017

Alone for 2 days, I decided to go from Sassnitz to Ralswiek alone. Forty-two nautical miles by sea, but only 13 km by land. I prepared yesterday by biking there and ensuring a nice alongside place at a pier!


Departing by 8, but taking one hour to get off the "poles", a very tricky manoeuvre for a single crew with a bit of wind.  I never arrived in Ralswiek...

Tuesday 11 July 2017

Sassnitz cliffs, Rügen - 11 July 2017

Today, waiting for the return of the crew, I explored the chalk cliffs of Sassnitz. A fifty kilometre bike trip through paved rural roads where you have to walk your bike most pdf the time. A full day experience indeed and feeling much broken tonight. I started with the opening of the Königsstuhl national park at 9:00. Worth ten minutes of your time. Much better to go around the trail for the "Victoria sicht" which is most amazing, and free.  



I was expecting a romantic experience as painted by Caspard David Friedrich...

Monday 10 July 2017

Kristiansø - Sassnitz, 9 July 2017

Sixty-two miles to go, waking-up at 5, at sea by 6. No wind until we pass the extremity of Bornholm. A German couple on a X 38 whom we met at Kristiansø is following us and is taking the pictures. Quite rare to see oneself at sea!

Belisama, on engine

Kristiansø, 7 & 8 July 2017

Kristiansø is a tiny Danish Island south-west of Utklippan, on the way to Bornholm. At this time of the year, the small sound where one can get shelter is quite packed with three to four rows of boats moored alongside.

Krisitansø sound.
Certainly a must in Southern Baltic!

Friday 7 July 2017

Utklippan, coup de coeur, indeed - 6 July 2017

Indeed, Utklippan is an extraordinary experience. We arrived there coming from Karlskrona around 16:30, along with five other boats seeking shelter in the small artificial basin built in the 30s' to provide shelter to local fishermen. We all found a place alongside each other.  

Utklippan, Belisama on the second row on the left...

Thursday 6 July 2017

Karlskrona - 4 to 6 July 2017

Karlskrona is the the main navy Swedish base in southern Baltic. The whole city feels like military, reminding me of Toulon in France. We are welcomed by HMS Falken, the 1947 training ship for the cadets of the Swedish navy, followed by three small luggers much faster that used to be the one collecting intelligence on the enemy ships in preparation of naval battles.


Karlskrona has the most beautiful marine museum that we have seen in Sweden...

Tuesday 4 July 2017

Back on sailing, Grönhögen - Karlskrona, 4 July 2017

After two days of gale in Grönhögen, the forecast was fine today to allow us to sail to Karlskrona. Two nights quite sleepless given how shaky was Belisama in Grönhögen with westerly winds. Late evening, she even broke one of her 20 mm diameter mooring lines with the noise of a broken guitar string!


The Kastellet at the entrance of Karlskrona. 
But after a fine day of sailing, Karlskrona was preparing a dark welcome...

Monday 3 July 2017

Gale in Grönhögen - 3 July 2017

Gale warning in Kalmar sound today. After reviewing the forecast, we decide to stay in Grönhöden for the day to avoid winds over 15 m/s. One more day on the bikes to further explore the area. Today, destination Gräsgård ham, on the east coast of Öland. 

Gräsgård hamn, southeast coast of Öland
The milky colour of the water remains a mystery. One hint, it stinks like rotten fish...

Sunday 2 July 2017

On vacation! Kalmar - Grönhögen, 30 June to 2 July 2017

Friday 31 evening, we take a train from Stockholm to Kalmar. In fact, it will take us 8 hours, starting with a bus, then a train, then a bus, and finally a taxi that covers the last 100 kilometres and drops us by Kalmar at 1:30 int the morning.
25 miles, with North wind. A pleasure, after lots of tacking in recent weeks.

Our new crew member, Mišo, arrives at 13:00 and we decide to leave Kalmar by 17:00, under rain and heavy winds from the north. Our neighbour dares asking us what we enjoy in sailing under these conditions... But we know that the weather will clear-up and we want to have the full day tomorrow to enjoy Grönhögen... 

Sunday 25 June 2017

Midsummer in Kalmar - 23/24 June 2017

We arrived at the boat at 17:00, right in time for the photo. The webcam overlooking the construction of the Linnée university takes a snapshot every hour by default. Belisama is the first boat on the left, seen sideways. The picture was taken just as we were getting on-board, as you can see by looking carefully at the front of the boat!
Getting onboard on midsummerafton
By that time, we had missed all midsummer celebrations...

Sunday 18 June 2017

Waterstuff - 17 & 18 June 2017

Reflection in the tank water on left, under the hull exploration on the right... A watery weekend!

Saturday 10 June 2017

Angry birds in Själevik - 10 June 2017

Having started our seasonal migration last week, from Nynäshamn to Oskarshamn, this week we had to come from Stockholm on Friday night, after a fantatiskt diner at friend's place, by car. A four hour drive, plus the resting stop on the way. We made it by 2:00 this morning, just in time for a good night.

Shopping for fresh stuff, plus shopping for gaz and other non perishable stuff for the month of June. Leaving by 14:30 for Själevik, for the night, on our way to Kalmar this weekend.

Bird view of Belisama in Självik, through the eyes of our cyclops...

Friday 9 June 2017

À la carte for the 2017 season - 9 June 2017

Certainly, our favorite dish on thE belisama carte is the blanquette de veau. Following our 24 hours night sailing last weekend to get to Öland, we decided that we deserve a blanquette. This one had been prepared on 17 May. You can find the recipe on the post of 16 May. It took 5 minutes to reheat and a bit more to get the rice cooked. It tested fabulous! 


Ahead of our friends joining for the summer sailing, we decided to extend the range of dishes on Belisama carte. On Thursday, we ran a full course of osso bucco, having enough for three meals for four people over the coming weeks... 

Monday 5 June 2017

And the spring finally came - 5 June 2017

A small fishing pier on Norra Udde, at the north tip of Öland. Spring has finally arrived, but will be quickly gone. For the time being, full of flowers around here.


Midnight sailing - 2 June 2017

Swedish national day on Tuesday 6. Therefore, a 4 day weekend ahead, with the objective to get Belisama around Kalmar to anticipate on the July trip around the southern coast of the Baltic. Departure 20:30 from Nynäshamn with south winds, due to turn southwest during the night.


This picture was taken at midnight, looking north, where the sun is at this time, but not quite far below the horizon. No need for navigation lights!

Monday 29 May 2017

Boeuf boletus - 18 May 2017

In a previous post, I was giving the preparation method for the blanquette de veau using a slow cooker with sous-vide conservation. This time, a boeuf boletus using same technique.

Here are the ingredients... 
Chunks of beef, few oignons, persil and boletus from last autumn.

Forgotten pictures... May 2017

Back home after the weekend, looking back at the cards in the various cameras, I found a few pictures which I took for sharing... Here they are in no order...

Arrival in Nynäshamn on Sunday, late afternoon. 

Sunday 28 May 2017

Encountering Morgan le Fay - 26 May 2017

Saturday 26 May, we depart from Utö marina around 10:00, to reach the Norhamn of Öja for the night. Very warn sunny day, the summer is there for now...
Passage through the Ryss-sundet, 2.5 metres deep, and not much wider than the boat.
This should have been an eventless nice cruise, but it was without counting on the tricks of Morgan le Fay.

Monday 22 May 2017

A flight over Huvudskär - 20-21 May 2017

This was the first real weekend of the 2017 season, with temperature above 20°C, bright sun, and a real air of summer, except the water temperature at 11°C. Belisama is moored in the sound on the right.


Right time to test her new drone...

Saturday 20 May 2017

It always starts in Huvudskär - 20-21 May 2017

Well, it was not supposed to start there for this weekend. After the two previous weekends freezing cold in Belisama, our ambition for this weekend was not going that far. Especially because this was the date of the Lindingö runt, which is always a nice opportunity to come across interesting boats.

Tuesday 16 May 2017

Fresh-sous vide vegetables, an oxymoron - 16 May 2017?

As for vegetable, so far I am testing with potatoes and green beans. Potatoes require to be sous-vide cooked at 85°C for two  hours. First peal them, wash them, dice them, and put them in a sous-vide vacuumed bag marked with content and date, for a dish for two or more, as needed.

Put the bag at 85°C for two hours, then freeze in cold water, before storing in the fridge for up to a goo month, as 85° ensures full pasteurisation of the potatoes. Store on the boat fridge. for future use after a long night watching for boats in the North Sea...


More vegies?

Sous-vide chicken - 16 May 2017

This post is about traditional chicken legs prepared sous-vide for consumption on the boat. Chicken legs are not so difficult to prepare on board, but they require appropriate cooking time, which is always more than expected, and after having eaten a couple of undercooked unhealthy chicken, I considered pre-cocking them sous-vide for easing their preparation. With great success...


No surprise, these are the ingredients. Add whatever seasoning you like, ans olive oil for the cooking. Ready?

French sailor's blanquette - 16 May 2017

La blanquette de veau is probably the most traditional French dish, which requires usually hours of attended cooking using a receipt transmitted in the matriarcal line in French families. For having lived abroad for many years, the "blanquette" becomes a reminder of the homeland. After having mastered the receipt on land, the question was how to make sure that once in a while we can have the blanquette on board of Belisama without jeopardising a full day of sailing. After a few trials, I found the solution, which I am presenting here, associating slow cooking at home, sous-vide packaging, and on board pre-serving arrangements. This changed our sailor's lives!


Here are the ingredients. From bottom up and left to right, 25 cl of cooking white wine, 2 kg of fresh veal filet (planning quite a few meals for friends), three garlic pieces, a dozen champignons cut in small pieces, fresh parsley, laurel leaves, thym, two big oignon (should be yellow ones...), four sliced carrots and two cooking bouillons... For the sauce step, you will need 150 grams butter, 4 spoons of white flour, one egg yolk, 500 gr. of crème fraiche, plus some salt and pepper according to taste. 

Ready?

Sunday 14 May 2017

Sailing to Grinda - 12 - 14 May

Following the snow storms of last weekend, we decided not to go too far this time. Destination Grinda, one of the most touristic place in the archipelago as it is a real archipelago island, but located two hours by ferry from Stockholm, therefore quite popular for short term visitors wanting to have an archipelago experience.


Wednesday 10 May 2017

Near gale in Saltsjöbaden - 8/9 May 2017

Second day of the 2017 season. Negative temperatures during the night and light snow flowing around in the morning. Blessing once more the diesel heater in these circumstances!

Sunday 7 May 2017

Waterborne again - 7 May 2017

Very early wake-up this morning to go voting at the opening of the French embassy at 8:00. I was there at 7h45, and there was already a line of a good hundred people waiting! I just heard now the results of the vote and I am vey happy to have delays our time to set waterborne... 



Just a short ride to get the brunch at Artipelag, and reach Slatsjöbaden for the night. The weather forecast is for snow tonight...

Tuesday 25 April 2017

Cooking on board - 26 April 2017

Maybe it is the never ending winter this year, but I have decided to start a new thread on this blog to report on cooking issues that I have been exploring in the previous years. You may have noticed this only in one of the recent posts on the blog, but I have been engaged in exploring "slow cooking" and "sous-vide" cooking for quite some time now, and would like to share our experience with you, as sailors on a boat...
Source: http://photo.ina.fr/volumeLR/ina_volume20101011/44292345_26797098/m_167707852_0.jpg 
There has always been an issue in getting fresh product on board of sailing boats to prevent scorbut. When the Dutch colonised the Dutch indies (Indonesia nowadays) they started producing wine in an attempt to replenish sailing ships on their way to Batavia with scorbut preventing "muscadet", first produced in 1659. From 1688, with French religious wars ongoing, the huguenots fleeing away from France started the production of scorbut preventing wine in the "French corner" of South Africa, which was instrumental in the trade with Dutch Indies. Still nowadays, you can find the best of French wine in that corner of the world...

There out to be a way to prevent scorbut for sailors without requiring to load bunch of wine bottles on board, like the "Shadok Marin". This is the aim of this new tab, to show you how nowadays, Belisama plans to prevent scorbut on board with our necessarily loading lots of small bottle in the boat.

Saturday 22 April 2017

You must believe in spring - 22 April 2017

21 March is long gone, but you still must believe in spring. This is the toughest time of the year in Sweden. Days are getting longer, but spring does not show-up. Finally, flowers have blossomed in Stockholm in the past week, a bit in advance compared with previous years. Belisama is ready to sail, but temperatures are still fluctuating around 0°C, and we are waiting for better conditions for the first cruise of the year.


The cherry trees on Kungsträdgården are at their best. But snow remains around. Weird!

Wednesday 8 March 2017

"Sous vide" for the boat - 8 March 2017

The long and cold 2017 winter is prone to long and dark evenings preparing for the coming sailing season. The ongoing Stockholm boat show this week is the signal here of the end of the hibernation. Still a long way to go when looking at the car this morning though...


Let me tel you about "sous vide " cooking technique to ensure good fresh food available on Belisama all season long.