Chasing auroras in Tromsø - 13 - 16 December

This was my third trip in Tromsø in winter, and as for the two previous trips, we saw nice auroras. Tromsø is certainly one of the very best place in Europe to watch auroras. But Tromsø in winter has much more to offer.

Ersfjordbotn

Days are rather short when we approach the winter solstice, but you can get around from 11:00 to 14:00, giving plenty of time to explore the fjords around...

Övergran church, 4 November 2018

Another of the Albertus Pictor painted churches visited during All Saints day in November. 

And another marvel church in the Mälaren!

MOOC on meteorology for sailors on French sailing school - What I learned on clouds, 18 November 2018

Going on retirement, I registered to the French National School for Sailing MOOC on meteorology, a three-week course for sailors wishing to improve their meteorological skills. The first week of the MOOC was devoted to meteorological principles and clouds. In this post, I will highlight what I got out of the MOOC regarding clouds.

Husby Church - 2nd November 2018

On second of November, we visited the church of Husby-Sjusoflt, one of the churches with Albertus Pictor frescoes.

Stove fan, the solution! - 5 November 2018

For quite some time, I was looking for a way to circulate the air in the cabin when using the Antarctic Dikinson diesel stove. I got tired of getting my feet frozen while running full stove. While shopping in Clas Ohlson for led lights for the boat, I came across this product put on sale, to be put on wood or diesel stove to circulate air in the "stuga", the typical cabin owned by most Swedes. In fact, according to Wikipedia, there are 680,000 stugor in Sweden, meaning that 50% of the population has access to a stuga. Heating the Stuga in winter is quite a problem, and therefore, any way to improve the heating is quite a priority.

I bought one and tried it on Belisama...

Dingtuna chuch - 1st November 2018

Visiting the churches with Albertus Pictor painting is quite complicated because they tend to be closed most of the times. Around Västerås, we realised that most of these churches are no longer holding Sunday mass. They are just used on few occasions for baptism, wedding or funerals. All saints celebration is one of the few period of the year when the churches may be opened to public.

The Dingtuna church is located few kilometres from Västerås (see map here). It is one of the 35 churches painted by Albertus Pictor.

Västerås - 1st November 2018

For All Saints vacation, we went to Västerås, one hundred kilometres from Stockholm, for a relaxing weekend in the countryside. For most of us, Västerås is the Ryanair hub for the UK and Western destinations. 

Gamla Västerås

However, we will soon learn that Västerås was, once upon a time, one of the most important city in Sweden!...

Härkeberga church, Enköping - 28 October 2018

Härkeberga church is probably among the most beautiful churches with middle-ages frescoes in Sweden.

It made our first winter time day as we encountered the first snow on the country roads to get there.

Fjäderholmarna - 20 & 21 October 2018

This is probably one of the last weekend of the 2018 season. Yet, weather is till very nice even though temperatures are getting lower, currently around 0°C during nights. But nothing to stop us from getting around! So this weekend, we were sailing-out to fill the diesel tank before parking to our winter quarters in Wasahamnen. However, when getting to the marine gas station in Fjärholmarna, we got caught by the light and decided to spend the night there... We even had dinner outside until the sunset!

Displaying points on interest in Google earth Pro, 13 October 2018

I have been exploring a bit in recent weeks how to use Google Earth Pro to display points relevant for cruising in the Baltic. I managed to extract my tracks from my Furuno TZT2 chart plotter, in files with a .CSV extension, that can be imported easily in Google Earth. 

Then, I collided several lists of points of relevance for cruising in Sweden: marinas, natural harbours, marine gas stations, Svenska Krysar Klubb buoys, and even churches with fresco, castles or stone ships. Here is what I learned through the process...

From Tromsø to Svolvær, 16 - 22 September 2018

Belisama crew got invited on Cybele 17 for a ten day cruise, from Tromsø to Svolvær. A fantastiskt experience in the late boreal summer. The picture below represents the Fisherman's wife at the entrance of the harbour in Svolvær. A good summary of the ten days: contrasted lights, amazing clouds, impressive landscape and lots of emotions...

Fisherman's wife, Svolvær harbour, Lofoten Islands, Noway.

Smådalarö, 8 & 9 September

Smådalarö Gård is an hotel located at the entrance of the fjord heading towards Saltsjöbaden, in a bay protected from all winds with a very shallow entrance.

Smådalarö Gård. Belisama, fourth from the left.

Svenska Högarna, Stora Massa, Bockö, 10-20 August 2018

Nice weather but strong winds up to 14 m/s for this August weekend. As we have friends onboard, we decide to cover a large area, through opens to Svenska Högarna, the northern archipelago in Stora Nassa, and then in Bockö, before heading back to Stockholm. Besides, this is the open lighthouse weekend and we plan to visit the lighthouse in Svenska Högarna.

Panorama from the top of the lighthouse

Nynäshamn - Napoléonviken - Artipelag - Stockholm, 10-12 August 2018

This weekend was the return of Belisama to her homeport of Wasahamnen in Stockholm after more than three months away. Strong winds up to 16 m/s were announced, along with some rain. Friday, with winds ranging 10 to 12 m/s, we made it from Nynäshamn to Napoléonviken, 30 miles in four hours, meaning around 8 knots on average.

Anchored in Napoléonviken, well protected from all winds

But what was Napoléon doing here...?

Mariehamn - Nynäshamn, 29 July 2018

Mariehamn - Nynäshamn was the final segment our summer sailing. En route, we met a viking ship on her way to Täby, Sweden.

Quite a trip back in history...

Moon eclipse and noctilucent cloud summer festival, 25 & 27 July

We arrived in Mariehamn, Åland, on 27 July, just in time to witness the moon eclipse from the marina. Moonrise was at 22:15, but we could not see any moon rising at the time. We would realise after that the moon was so faint that it was not visible along the horizon through the atmosphere. It is only around 23:30 that the moon start appearing when it reach higher elevation over the horizon. By then, it was a remarkable show!

The blood moon in Mariehamn, Åland, 27 July, 23:30 and 23:55

Twenty-five minutes later, the sun started highlighting again the moon. The shape of the highlighted area differed from the normal moon crescent that we are used too, as it is the shadow of the earth on the surface of the moon and not the areas of the moon in the shadow when receiving the light from the sun sideways.

The Kumligne surprise, 26 July 2018

Kumlinge was just the only opportunity for a marina between Brändö and Mariehamn. This was the rationale for going there. And we discovered one of the nicest churches that we have visited so far. In fact, we realised that we should get some real touristic books telling us about what to see in the country, rather than just the coastal pilot telling us where we can safely anchor or moor, but nothing about what we can do or see there... And in English, rather than Swedish or Finnish would be a plus :-)!

Kumlinge marina, 26 July 2018

And the church we found there by chance is quite a church...

Fish farming in Brändö, 24-25 July 2018

While crossing from Turku Archipelago to the Åland Archipelago, we encountered several fish farms nets. Passing by its Belisama, we could witness fishes jumping out of the water, but not escaping though as there are protection nets. 

We wanted to know more about such farms (thanks to Cybèle 17 post on fish farming in Norway in French) and our friends that we were visiting in Brändö organised for us a visit to the farm...

Iniö, 23 July 2018

Iniö is one of the last stopover on the island part of the Turku archipelago trail. Sailing here requires a lot of attention given the very many ferries crossing continuously between the islands given the touristic traffic at this time of the year.

Houtskär - 22 July 2018

Houtskär is one of the most popular spot in the Archipelago sea. It is one of the "coup de coeur" de Cybèle 17 and it is why we ended-up there. And we really liked it!

Rainy day in Nagu - 20 July 2018

Where are we? The map below represents the archipelago sea and its 60,000 islands.We are now in Nauvo/Nagu (all places have different name in Finnish and in Swedish!), a week after having entered the Archipelago sea in Hanko.

The Archipelago sea

 Sailing in the Archipelago sea has proven to be extremely challenging, because of the shallow waters, number of rocks of all sizes, and area poorly documented in the nautical charts. We had to revert in areas where we ended-up with less than two meters of water while we were outside of the six metre line. In the planning process, one should zoom in ++ in oder to be sure not to miss a bridge somewhere, which could result in a very long detour in this labyrinth.

Now, we plan to visit friends in Brändö before heading towards Mariehamn in the most direct way.

Seili/Själö, the lepers' island, 18 July 2018

Leprosy, Hansen disease (named after the Norwegian who discovered the mycobacteria) was endemic in scandinavian countries in the middle ages. Seili island was established in 1619 as a place where to "banish" lepers. At this time, the Finland that we know was part of the Swedish kingdom. Many such lepers colony were established all over Sweden. More than 600 lepers have been buried in Seili, and the last one died in 1785. Among the reasons to select Sail as the lepers island was that it is part of a sandy ridge suitable for burial!

The former hospital, now hosting a research centre from the Turku university

The Hitis archipelago, 15-18 July 2018

Leaving Hanko, we have entered the "Archipelago sea", the largest archipelago in the world, with its more than 50,000 islands and islets. 

Sunset at Öjen, from the drone

As we are experiencing a highly anticyclonic weather, we take advantage of the solar winds for moving around at the time of favourable winds. The alternance of sea breeze and land breeze allows us to move in the morning around 10, and anchor in natural harbour by mid afternoon. Very quiet evenings and nights, the land breeze only starting early morning because of the very short nights at this time of the year.

Visit to Bengtskär lighthouse - 13 July 2018

Bengtskär is a myth in Finland. It is the southern most constructed place in Finland, and remains the highest lighthouse in the Baltic. It has always been a strong symbol of Finland as it was the last "picture" of Finland that the emigrants to the Americas would see in the XIX century. It remains an iconic representation of Finland, which was used in the Parisian subway couple of years ago for an advertisement campaign to promote tourism in Finland.

Suomenlinna, 10-11 July 2018

On the way back from Porvoo, we stopped in Suomenlinna for a couple of days in order to meet friends and experience the Suomenlinna site, in the UNESCO world heritage.

Helsinki skyline, from Suomenlinna

Just Porvoo, 7-9 July 2018

After a rapid stopover in Helsinki to get crew members on board, we cruised to Porvoo with a Finnish friend couple. Porvoo is one of the most famous touristic place in Finland. We appreciated it a lot.

The Porvoo tourist office says that this is the most photographed landscape in Finland.

Quiet time in Helsinki - 4 to 7 July 2018

We found a berth in the centre of the city, at walking distance from the cathedral and the railway station. This was a rapid stopover to fetch new crew members. The Helsinki marina where we are is quite expensive for a boat of our size, and did not provide with a decent WIFI signal. Quite a disappointment, but so well located!

Nynäshamn - Hanko, Finland, 29 & 30 June 2018

Friday afternoon, after work, we depart from Nynäshamn for the first segment of the vacation, from Nynäshamn to Hanko at the southwest tip of Finland. A 165 mile ride directly through the Baltic. Weather 4D was clear that leaving Friday evening with significant northern winds was the best way to get through this. The routage from the app indicated a 24 hour cruise. It took us 25. Not bad app!

Hanko marina, the largest in Finland!

Am I a Viking? Bayeux, 6-12 June 2018

This weekend was the wedding of my nephew Josquin, with Violaine. The ceremonies were taking place around Bayeux, Normandy, and we flew from Stockholm to attend to the celebrations.

The tapestry of Bayeux, 1066

As the Swedish national day is the 6th of June, we came to Bayeux on the 6th, and stop on the way to Giverny, the home port for Monnet. 

A journey through time - 3 June 2018

A month already that we are in this unusual anticyclonic pattern bringing tropical temperatures to Sweden since the beginning of May, currently being above 30°C. Very unusual, but enjoyable, even though it comes of course with flocks of mosquitoes and other disagreements. No complains thought :-), so unusual, so enjoyable. I spent part of the weekend preparing for our Finland adventure in four weeks from now. Lots of small and bigger things to do, just the routine. Yet on Sunday, I decided to have a sail through time and moore in Anundshög where is located the largest stone ships in Sweden. Five of them indeed.

This was the start of a journey through time...

Quiet weekend in Trosa, 25 - 27 May

Trosa is a small town one hour drive out of Stockholm and 4 hours sailing from Nynäshamn. A very relaxing place for a summer weekend after a busy week. Only 5000 inhabitants, but a long history as an important medieval city. Trosa is the entry port to the Sörmlands archipelago coming from southward from the Stockholm archipelago.

Fata morgana in Huvudskär - 18 - 20 May 2018

Huvudskär is located 31 miles from Stockholm downtown, therefore easily accessible for a weekend.  It is usually the first ride of the year, even though, this year, with the summer starting early May, we have been cruising around to Sandhamn and Utö earlier this year.

Huvudskär, Belisama moored at the Svenskakryssar association buoy.

Summer in Sandhamn? 10-12 May 2018

This is Sweden! A feel of Plisson at Saint Cado in the Etel river. So much Stockholm archipelago! One rock, one stuga, one flag, one tree. What else would you need?

The return of spring in Utö - 4 - 6 May 2018

Spring is definitively back in the archipelago. Temperature up to 20°C on Sunday. In the boat on Friday after work for a night in Artipelag, on the way out. Long sail of 35 nm Saturday to go south west to Utö.

Passing Dalarö fort on the way back.

The Walpurgis night - 30 April 2018

We spent "sista April" (the last April [day]) with good friends in Löparö. We stopped there  on our way back from the north in 2016. This time, we went by car as the forecast was for two days of rain.

A view of the country side in Löparö island.

But this was the Walpurgis night, so much of a tradition in Sweden...

2018 season opening in Artipelag! - 28 & 29 April 2018

April this year will be the first cruise of the season. The Saturday 28 was not very nice though, but later in the afternoon the sky cleared and we got a nice setting sun when departing from Wasahamnen. See the rainbow on the right of the picture below. The rain had stopped just half an hour ago.

Bleeding the pilot cylinder - 19 April 2018

At the end of the season last year, I had the bad surprise to get my pilot to stop operating the tiler, while I could still hear it attempting it. A few checks later, I realised that I was missing oil tank was empty...

No oil in the level bubbling window!

An inspection of the hull below the cylinder identified red oily spots indicating that there had been some leaking from the purge bolts...

Scandinavian anticyclone - 26 February 2018

We are now end of February, very close to the Stockholm boat show, which indicates the start of the new season for sailing in Sweden. In prevision of this event, we decided to spend our first night of the season on board Belisama for this weekend, having invited friends for the occasion...

This was without consulting the weather forecast for the weekend in Stockholm, and therefore, a bad idea. The Scandinavian anticyclone is getting established over Scandinavia, right above Stockholm, resulting in polar weather for pretty much of the coming week here... 

Waves in the making - Kloten, 9-11 February

We spent the weekend in Kloten, at Nordic Discovery "Kloten city". A very nice place for a weekend with a warm welcome and good care provided! This is a fantastic spot to release pressure from the working week in the wilderness, two and a half hours west of Stockholm.

This gave us a nice opportunity to visit next summer Baltic waves in the making...

IOR dan buoy and Silzig - 8 February 2018

I spent this winter thinking about increasing security onboard Belisama for the coming season.While I was equipped with the standard horseshoe buoy and its light, along with a 25 metre rescue line, several discussions with Fañch and evenings spent exploring Internet made me consider adding an IOR pole to the horse shoe buoy and attaching a Silzig-like floating device at the end of the rescue line...

Ice sailing - 4 February 2018

Days are getting much longer and with -6°C today in Stockholm, we go to Täby for a walk along the frozen lake. Nordic skis are in the car, but the snow is not good enough...

And we came across a small ice kart marina along the bank...!

Stockholm choucroute - 28 January 2018

After few days in Cairo for work, I made it back to Stockholm just in time to check the result of my first attempt at fermenting choucroute in Stockholm!

After three weeks of nice bubbling, we opened the kysla kapusta jar this morning...

A fermenting winter - 10 January 2018

Already four days since I prepared the first batch of sauerkraut in the kapusta pot brought back from Slovakia. The preparation is continuing to bubble regularly, but at a lower pace, with one bubble every five minutes on average. Since it was covered with juice from the preparation, I followed the instructions, resisted the temptation, and did not open the lid to look inside...

In the mean time, yesterday, I got couple of preserve jars with a clip top at Ikea, for a very low cost (amazing in fact!). Then, I followed the instructions from the amazing blog "Ni cru ni cuit" of Marie-Claire Fréderic...

Kysla kapusta - 6 January 2008

Kysla kapusta is the translation in Slovak of sauerkraut, choucroute in French. While in Bratislava over the new year period, I was struck by the importance of kysla kapusta in the local markets. You can find long lines of people waiting to get a refill of sauerkraut in a glass jar or a plastic bag, along with the juice produced during fermentation.

A few Internet searches later, I got convinced that fermentation remains one of the best way for sailors, even nowadays, to get healthy food full of vitamin onboard that do not require energy for preparation, conservation or even cooking before eating.

This post describe our first attempt at preparing sauerkraut for Belisama...