Wednesday, 6 August 2025
Cold fronts
Warm fronts
Mesoscale drivers, understanding regional weather drivers in the Northern Adriatic
When the synoptic map shows nothing special, the real action often comes from local and regional weather drivers.
Understanding these mesoscale effects is essential for safe and comfortable sailing in this highly variable and geographically complex region.
40 knots bora katabatic wind in Senj, while only 10 knots in Mali-Lošinj, from Northeast over the Triest and Senj area on 9 June 2025.
1. Sea breeze and land breeze cycles
Sea breeze (daytime)
- Driven by temperature contrast between land (which heats faster) and sea.
- Warm air over land rises; cooler, denser air from the sea rushes in to replace it.
- Typically builds late morning, peaks in the afternoon (10-20 knots), and fades around sunset.
- Most reliable in spring and summer, during clear-sky high-pressure conditions.
- Driven by temperature contrast between land (which heats faster) and sea.
- Warm air over land rises; cooler, denser air from the sea rushes in to replace it.
- Typically builds late morning, peaks in the afternoon (10-20 knots), and fades around sunset.
- Most reliable in spring and summer, during clear-sky high-pressure conditions.
Land breeze (nighttime)
- Land cools faster than sea after sunset.
- Cold air over land flows out to sea, usually as a light offshore wind (less than 10 knots).
- Can oppose or reinforce synoptic winds depending on alignment.
- Watch out: the transition period around sunset and sunrise can be tricky, especially when sea breeze fights against a light synoptic wind.
2. Mountain and valley winds
The Dinaric Alps and surrounding terrain create downslope (katabatic) and upslope (anabatic) flows:
Katabatic winds
- Cold, dense air descends rapidly down mountain slopes.
- Strengthens at night, especially during Bora events.
- Can cause sudden gusts even when synoptic maps show calm conditions.
Anabatic winds
- Sun heats mountain slopes during the day.
- Warm air rises, sometimes enhancing cloud formation over inland hills.
- Can trigger localised convection, cumulus development, or instability.
Example: inland hills east of Trieste can enhance the afternoon sea breeze or destabilize conditions.
3. Thunderstorms and squall lines ("nevera")
- Triggered by hot, moist surface air meeting a cold air mass aloft or by convergence zones.
- Typically form in late afternoon or evening and may come from the northwest, crossing from Italy or forming over Istria.
- Nevera: sudden violent squall line, short-lived but dangerous. Winds can spike to 30+ knots with thunder, lightning, and downbursts (see "Never ever again unprepared for Nevera, 16 June, Šibenik").
Saturday, 2 August 2025
Synoptic scale: understanding global weather drivers
Understanding weather begins at the global level, what meteorologists call the synoptic scale. The word "synoptic" comes from Greek and means "seen together" or "comprehensive." In meteorology, it refers to large-scale atmospheric patterns and interactions that influence the weather over wide areas.
Monday, 28 July 2025
Setting the global picture: how air moves around the earth
“To understand what’s going to happen next in your sailing spot, you need to know what’s happening around the world.”
When planning a sailing trip, particularly in the relatively enclosed Adriatic, knowing where the wind comes from, where it might go next and what will be the drivers is vital. Most of the winds we experience aren't just random gusts. They are part of a much larger earth’s atmospheric circulation.
Figure 1. Idealised depiction (at equinox) of large-scale atmospheric circulation on Earth, Wikipedia
This post explores how the global engine of wind and weather works, and why it matters every time you raise your sails...
Sunday, 27 July 2025
Adriatic weather forecast sites

Wednesday, 23 July 2025
Belisama in Limfjord, 20-21 July 2025
As part of or summer explorations, we decided to explore the Limfjord with a couple of South-African friends on a weekend where all conditions could be met: none of us four having to work and weather permitting. The ride from Marina Polesana is 27 nautical miles, heading north through Fažana and Rovinj, before heading up the Limfjord.
Our Australian friends were there for a couple of days last year after we met in Umag and they were advising us to visit this place. And we did and understood why...
Sunday, 13 July 2025
Portić - Borovinje, 4th July, 2025
Borovinje is a large cove that is only partially protected from the Bora wind. One sailor on Navily mentioned a strong funnelling effect under the Bora wind, which results in strong gusts of wind. We experienced these gusts all night long!
And this exactly what we got overnight... But before that, it had been a paradise!
Saturday, 12 July 2025
Polesana - Uvala Portić, 3 July 2025
Uvala Pović is a large bay for anchorage which is very famous fo sailors all over Istria. Even at the peak of the season, in July, it is easy to find a spot, in particular if you want to come close to the Shore in the 4 to 6 metres depth, a draft still ok for most boats, but in particular for OVNIs as Belisama, that needs only 1.05 m...
So far, in her new module, Kaja painted from the land, but the challenge this time is eventually to paint from the sea! So that is why we left for the possibly best spot for paintings cliffs in Croatia, from the Kamenljak bay...
Sunday, 29 June 2025
Unije, 26 June, the last stop before crossing the Kvarner back to Pula.
A stop-over in Losinj, 24-25 June
The island of Lošinj, located in the Kvarner Gulf, has long served as an important center of maritime activity. Its scenic landscape and naturally sheltered bay, protected from all winds, have made it a favoured stopover since ancient times, particularly in light of the Bora winds that frequently affect this northern part of the Adriatic Sea.
Tuesday, 24 June 2025
A night in Zavratnica cove, 22 June
We spent the shortest night of the year in Zavratnica (pronounce Zavratnitsa) cove, a well preserved secret 40 km south of Senj, along the Dalmatian coast. We were advised by my cousins who explored the coast in a camping car and with whom we sailed to the Kornati (see earlier posts).
Monday, 23 June 2025
A night ride to Rab, 20-21 June
Passing Sibenik at night
It worked as expected: under two reefs and the staysail, we made good speed through the night. However, the Bora lasted much longer than anticipated, extending well into the next day. While the boat handled the conditions well, the prolonged exposure to strong winds and confused seas made for a demanding passage...Friday, 20 June 2025
Krka National park, 18-19 June
Krka National Park (pronounced Queurka in French) is located just a few miles upstream along the Krka River from the coastal city of Šibenik. It stands out as one of Croatia’s most popular and scenic national parks, and it’s well worth a visit—whether you're arriving by sailboat or exploring by land. The park’s highlight is Skradinski Buk, a breathtaking series of travertine waterfalls and emerald pools cascading through a lush, forested canyon. It's one of the most iconic natural sites in the country. For sailors, the town quay in Skradin offers mooring at a rate of €5 per meter plus 25% VAT—about half the price of the nearby ACI Marina. Entry to the park during the summer season is €40 per person, but the experience is undeniably worth the cost. Don’t hesitate—Krka National Park is a must-see destination on any Croatian itinerary.
Thursday, 19 June 2025
Šibenik, the Magnifique, 17-18 June
Šibenik is one of the oldest towns on the Adriatic Sea, at the mouth of the Krka River where it meets the Adriatic. Over the centuries, Šibenik developed under the Croatian kings before falling under Venetian and later Habsburg control, with a French period in between, from 1809 to 1813, each leaving architectural and cultural legacies. The city is best known for its medieval fortresses and the UNESCO-listed Cathedral of St. James, an architectural masterpiece blending Gothic and Renaissance styles. With its compact stone streets, strategic location, and deep natural harbour, Šibenik played a key role in regional history, serving as both a political centre and a defensive stronghold. Today, while its trade function has diminished in favour of tourism and cultural heritage, the city retains its historic significance and continues to serve as a gateway for regional economic and maritime activity in the Adriatic.
We got a berth at the quay in the centre of the town. Most convenient en enjoyable! From there we could go shopping after our four around the Kornati using Uber.
And we were at the right spot. to visit the town centre...
Tuesday, 17 June 2025
Never ever again unprepared for Nevera, 16 June, Šibenik
Let me tell you what happened to us...
Sunday, 15 June 2025
Four days in the Kornati islands, 12-15 June
After picking our cousins from France in Murter, we engage in an exploratory tour of the Kornati islands...
Wednesday, 11 June 2025
Velebit canal, ahead of the Bora, 8 June
The Velebit Channel is a unique place, stretching south-easterly from Senj in the north to Rovanska in the south. The Velebit mountain range borders it along the coast, and the long, narrow Pag island borders it on the seaside..
Monday, 9 June 2025
Goli otok, 6-7 June 2025
The aerial view of Goli Otok makes it clear why its name translates into English as "Barren Island" and into French as l’Île Nue. We spent two nights there in the square-shaped harbour to visit the island.
Goli Otok was an internment camp established in 1949 in the aftermath of the Tito–Stalin split. Tito, who became Prime Minister of Yugoslavia in 1945, sought a more independent and regionally influential role for Yugoslav communists, particularly in relation to neighbouring countries such as Albania, Greece, and Bulgaria—an ambition Stalin did not support. Tensions culminated in 1948 when the Communist Information Bureau (Cominform) issued a resolution calling for a change of leadership in Yugoslavia. This led to a rift between Tito’s Yugoslav communists and the pro-Stalin Cominformists.
The Yugoslav communists retained power and established a system of camps and prisons to detain Cominform supporters—the largest of which was the Goli Otok camp, opened in July 1949.
Today, the island is abandoned and slowly being reclaimed by nature. Yet, Croatians remain acutely aware of their history and the crises that have shaped it—reaching a peak during the Balkan wars of the early 1990s.
Let's have a tour...
Thursday, 5 June 2025
Start of the summer sailing, 4 June
With both of us officially on vacation starting end of May, we took a few days to get the boat ready for a month tour of Croatia. In particular, it was rather difficult to get new parachute flares as regulation requires some special pyrotechnic closet in shops, and none of the ship chandlers contacted in Pula could get any! We finally got them from Rijeka.
On 4 June, late afternoon, we depart from Oula for Banjole, a few miles out. Night at anchor.
Monday, 12 May 2025
Start of the 2025 season: Pula to Pula through Cres, Krk and Losinj (172 nm)
May 6 - 10, a practice with a crew of newly licensed sailors
This year the season started on the 6th of May with a request from motivated nephews to "experience" sailing after having obtained their sailing licence the year before, the idea being to go through all waters and weather conditions. And the crew got it, because May is the right time to experience unstable weather conditions, associating warm spring days driven by breezes and cold days driven by Bora (catabatic winds) and Yugo! We got it all!
The crew, May 6, departing from Pula |