Saturday, 25 July 2020

Kyrkesund to Marstrand, 23 July 2020

The plan for the day was to stop at the Pater Noster lighthouse on the island of Hamneskär as there is a small pier that we could see on the areal picture of the island. However, as we went by, we realised that the swell would make it uncomfortable, if not dangerous to moor there. So we just passed by... 


A name as "Pater Noster" cannot have been made-up! It came from the prayers that seamen were making when passing these most dangerous waters...

Pater Noster is one the many lighthouses conceived by Nils Gustaf von Heidenstam in the XIX century. It was built in 1868 and deactivated in 1977. A major renovation was conducted in 2002, requiring moving the lighthouse to Göteborg (see pictures below!)

Pater Noster on a giant floating crane, 2002
Lighthouse Pater Noster visits Goteborg
Pater Noster on his way back to Hamneskär after renovation
Not being able to stop in Hamneskär, we continue our route towards Marstrand on the West Coast. On the way we pass the Carlsten fortress.


We arrive early afternoon in the very (very) busy harbour of Marstrand, called locally the Mecca of sailing in Sweden. Luckily, there is a pier for boats over 14 metre long with some empty spots. 

Belisama at the >14 m boat pier
For sailing in Marstrand, you will find hundreds of clips on YouTube. I selected one of the Stena Match Cup in Marstrand in 2013 to give you an idea...



The city is pedestrian as no cars are allowed on Marstrand island. Over the years, Marstrand has been Danish, Norwegian and Swedish. Marstrand was a very prosperous city at the time of the abundance of herrings along the cost.  

Pedestrian streets on Marstrand
The architecture dates from early XXth century, when Oscar II, then king of Sweden and Norway was staying there for extended periods.


The church was built at the end of the XIIIth century. 

Marstrands kyrka 2
Marstrand church, Wikimedia


The HMS Norrköping was a war ship that anchored in the harbour of Marstrand in 1906 and stayed there for 30 years, functioning as barracks for the cabin boys. 

Votive ship "HMS Norrköping"


The series of picture on the wall is called Schola Cordis (school of the heart). The motive are from 1629 and illustrate the the path of the human soul through sin and suffering until the unification with the divine love. Very kitsch!

A view from the fortress
A view from the fortress towards the North-east
View from the fortress towards the West
View of Pater Noster lighthouse on Hamneskär, from the fortress towards the North-West
View of the fortress at dusk
Marstrand strait at dusk


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