We depart from Houat at 6:00 AM for Noirmoutier, a 35 miles southeast ride. We are accompanied on the way by a shoal of dolphins jumping around obviously happy.
I am there the most happy captain in the area. Such a pleasure to be back at sea after a year of repairs for Belisama! Yet, after 17 years sailing in the Baltic, the Atlantic needs one to get back to tides and currents pretty rapidly and accurately. Challenges here are so different from the one experienced in the Baltic, which is basically free of current and tides, making it easier even though you need to keep a close eye on rocks. But this results in the absence of "smelling" the sea, as we experience with great pleasure along the Channel and Atlantic sea, reminding me instantly of my teenager sailing here, similar probably to what Proust is describing in his smelling of a Madeleine reminding him of his childhood, a cake very much shaped like a boat!
On the way, we came across wind mill fields with mixed feelings. On one hand no question that these wind mills are better located at sea that on shore, but now, it is limiting the areas where you can freely sail at sea! So far, so good, good to see, but need to watch as it is going to be very large areas where sailing will be prohibited. We are getting the feeling that sooner or later, sailing boats will have to sails in these areas on dedicated highway lanes, making it not very different to driving a van on land... But since this is for the protection of environment, I will gladly comply!
We arrive in Noirmoutier early afternoon, after a 35 nautical mile ride. Noirmoutier was an island conquered by the Vikings around 824, from where they controlled much of the south Brittany area. Fascinating to come across a crucifix on an anchor in a field of the island next to the Vieil chapel (Salut Valérie...). It was erected in 1959.
Below is the tuna boat Monseigneur SOBEAUX built by Philibert RAYMOND dit Pointcaré, in 1960.
Noirmoutier is a very interesting island to explore on bike, though the salty marsh, which is one the most important resource of the island.
This is the typical landscape to salty marsh on Noirmoutier, with the labyrinth of final collection ponds, fed by concentrating ponds where water is evaporating. A hell of a job to complete the process!
We get a full load of salt for coming years! The "fleur de sel" is the layer of salt floating on the surface of the pound when the evaporation rate is very high. The salt from the area is collected by pulling the salt resulting from the natural drying of the pound.
School crossing looking like Brittany dancers with their round hats!
At the end of the day, we experienced a very nice restaurant evening, appreciating the most famous menu item in Brittany, the "oeuf, jambon, fromage" Breton buckwheat pancake with a bowl of cider!
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