Šibenik, the Magnifique, 17-18 June

Šibenik is one of the oldest towns on the Adriatic Sea, at the mouth of the Krka River where it meets the Adriatic. Over the centuries, Šibenik developed under the Croatian kings before falling under Venetian and later Habsburg control, with a French period in between, from 1809 to 1813, each leaving architectural and cultural legacies. The city is best known for its medieval fortresses and the UNESCO-listed Cathedral of St. James, an architectural masterpiece blending Gothic and Renaissance styles. With its compact stone streets, strategic location, and deep natural harbour, Šibenik played a key role in regional history, serving as both a political centre and a defensive stronghold. Today, while its trade function has diminished in favour of tourism and cultural heritage, the city retains its historic significance and continues to serve as a gateway for regional economic and maritime activity in the Adriatic.

Šibenik, along the Krka river, with the connection to the Adriatic sea in the background

We got a berth at the quay in the centre of the town. Most convenient en enjoyable! From there we could go shopping after our four around the Kornati using Uber.

And we were at the right spot. to visit the town centre...

Never ever again unprepared for Nevera, 16 June, Šibenik

I thought we were familiar with most of the winds that sweep across the northern Adriatic, but last night we were caught off guard by a Nevera — one of those sudden Adriatic storms that strike without warning and vanish just as quickly. In less than two hours, over 30 boats were driven ashore, and rescue services were responding to incidents all along the northern coastline of Croatia.

Picture south of Rovinj by A. Simunović

Let me tell you what happened to us...

Four days in the Kornati islands, 12-15 June

The Kornati National Park, located in central Dalmatia, is an uninhabited archipelago comprising 89 islands, islets, and reefs spreading across crystal-clear waters. It is a paradise for sailors with lots of anchorages in protected coves. 

View to the Northwest from Fort Tureta on Kornat island

After picking our cousins from France in Murter, we engage in an exploratory tour of the Kornati islands...

Velebit canal, ahead of the Bora, 8 June

 The Velebit Channel is a unique place, stretching south-easterly from Senj in the north to Rovanska in the south. The Velebit mountain range borders it along the coast, and the long, narrow Pag island borders it on the seaside..

Sailing close-hauled in the Velebit, but with wind coming from the sea, therefore, not Bora!

The Velebit Channel is famous because of the katabatic wind it generates, known as the bora. Given that an episode of Bora is expected tomorrow, we rush through the canal and prolong our ride of a few miles to avoid its effects!

Goli otok, 6-7 June 2025

The aerial view of Goli Otok makes it clear why its name translates into English as "Barren Island" and into French as l’Île Nue. We spent two nights there in the square-shaped harbour to visit the island.

Goli Otok was an internment camp established in 1949 in the aftermath of the Tito–Stalin split. Tito, who became Prime Minister of Yugoslavia in 1945, sought a more independent and regionally influential role for Yugoslav communists, particularly in relation to neighbouring countries such as Albania, Greece, and Bulgaria—an ambition Stalin did not support. Tensions culminated in 1948 when the Communist Information Bureau (Cominform) issued a resolution calling for a change of leadership in Yugoslavia. This led to a rift between Tito’s Yugoslav communists and the pro-Stalin Cominformists.

The Yugoslav communists retained power and established a system of camps and prisons to detain Cominform supporters—the largest of which was the Goli Otok camp, opened in July 1949.

Image source: Republic of Croatia State Geodetic Administration

Today, the island is abandoned and slowly being reclaimed by nature. Yet, Croatians remain acutely aware of their history and the crises that have shaped it—reaching a peak during the Balkan wars of the early 1990s.

Let's have a tour...

Start of the summer sailing, 4 June

 With both of us officially on vacation starting end of May, we took a few days to get the boat ready for a month tour of Croatia. In particular, it was rather difficult to get new parachute flares as regulation requires some special pyrotechnic closet in shops, and none of the ship chandlers contacted in Pula could get any! We finally got them from Rijeka.

On 4 June, late afternoon, we depart from Oula for Banjole, a few miles out. Night at anchor.

Sunrise in Banjole, 5 June

Start of the 2025 season: Pula to Pula through Cres, Krk and Losinj (172 nm)

May 6 - 10, a practice with a crew of newly licensed sailors

This year the season started on the 6th of May with a request from motivated nephews to "experience" sailing after having obtained their sailing licence the year before, the idea being to go through all waters and weather conditions. And the crew got it, because May is the right time to experience unstable weather conditions, associating warm spring days driven by breezes and cold days driven by Bora (catabatic winds) and Yugo! We got it all!

The crew, May 6, departing from Pula