Sunday, 29 June 2025

Unije, 26 June, the last stop before crossing the Kvarner back to Pula.

Unije is a small, tranquil island in the northern Adriatic, part of Croatia’s Cres-Lošinj archipelago. Known for its unspoiled nature and crystal-clear waters, Unije is ideal for swimming, walking, and relaxing. The island is popular with sailors for its sheltered anchorages protected from Bora winds, especially on Thursday nights as rental boats need to be back to Pula on Fridays. 

Thursday afternoon in Unije, at peak season...

A stop-over in Losinj, 24-25 June

The island of Lošinj, located in the Kvarner Gulf, has long served as an important center of maritime activity. Its scenic landscape and naturally sheltered bay, protected from all winds, have made it a favoured stopover since ancient times, particularly in light of the Bora winds that frequently affect this northern part of the Adriatic Sea.

Belisama in Mali Losinj marina
And indeed, it has a lot to offer...

Tuesday, 24 June 2025

A night in Zavratnica cove, 22 June

We spent the shortest night of the year in Zavratnica (pronounce Zavratnitsa) cove, a well preserved secret 40 km south of Senj, along the Dalmatian coast. We were advised by my cousins who explored the coast in a camping car and with whom we sailed to the Kornati (see earlier posts). 

Belisama in the Zavratnica cove, from the trail to Jablanac

This place is documented in Navily, the community forum for sailors looking for anchorages...

Monday, 23 June 2025

A night ride to Rab, 20-21 June

With the need to return to Pula by the end of the week—and a forecasted storm approaching—we decided on a one-shot night sail from Šibenik to Rab, a 90-nautical-mile passage. Our decision was guided by the forecast of a moderate Bora event, with wind speeds around 14 m/s (28 knots), which we expected would allow us to maintain a steady 7 to 8 knots under sail, significantly shortening the time needed to cover the distance.

Passing Sibenik at night

It worked as expected: under two reefs and the staysail, we made good speed through the night. However, the Bora lasted much longer than anticipated, extending well into the next day. While the boat handled the conditions well, the prolonged exposure to strong winds and confused seas made for a demanding passage...

Friday, 20 June 2025

Krka National park, 18-19 June

Krka National Park (pronounced Queurka in French) is located just a few miles upstream along the Krka River from the coastal city of Šibenik. It stands out as one of Croatia’s most popular and scenic national parks, and it’s well worth a visit—whether you're arriving by sailboat or exploring by land. The park’s highlight is Skradinski Buk, a breathtaking series of travertine waterfalls and emerald pools cascading through a lush, forested canyon. It's one of the most iconic natural sites in the country. For sailors, the town quay in Skradin offers mooring at a rate of €5 per meter plus 25% VAT—about half the price of the nearby ACI Marina. Entry to the park during the summer season is €40 per person, but the experience is undeniably worth the cost. Don’t hesitate—Krka National Park is a must-see destination on any Croatian itinerary.

The Skradinski Buk, the most famous spot in the park

Getting there by sailing boat from Šibenik is a very nice 4 nm ride through the Krka river...

Thursday, 19 June 2025

Šibenik, the Magnifique, 17-18 June

Šibenik is one of the oldest towns on the Adriatic Sea, at the mouth of the Krka River where it meets the Adriatic. Over the centuries, Šibenik developed under the Croatian kings before falling under Venetian and later Habsburg control, with a French period in between, from 1809 to 1813, each leaving architectural and cultural legacies. The city is best known for its medieval fortresses and the UNESCO-listed Cathedral of St. James, an architectural masterpiece blending Gothic and Renaissance styles. With its compact stone streets, strategic location, and deep natural harbour, Šibenik played a key role in regional history, serving as both a political centre and a defensive stronghold. Today, while its trade function has diminished in favour of tourism and cultural heritage, the city retains its historic significance and continues to serve as a gateway for regional economic and maritime activity in the Adriatic.

Šibenik, along the Krka river, with the connection to the Adriatic sea in the background

We got a berth at the quay in the centre of the town. Most convenient en enjoyable! From there we could go shopping after our four around the Kornati using Uber.

And we were at the right spot. to visit the town centre...

Tuesday, 17 June 2025

Never ever again unprepared for Nevera, 16 June, Šibenik

I thought we were familiar with most of the winds that sweep across the northern Adriatic, but last night we were caught off guard by a Nevera — one of those sudden Adriatic storms that strike without warning and vanish just as quickly. In less than two hours, over 30 boats were driven ashore, and rescue services were responding to incidents all along the northern coastline of Croatia.

Picture south of Rovinj by A. Simunović

Let me tell you what happened to us...