Velebit canal, ahead of the Bora, 8 June

 The Velebit Channel is a unique place, stretching south-easterly from Senj in the north to Rovanska in the south. The Velebit mountain range borders it along the coast, and the long, narrow Pag island borders it on the seaside..

Sailing close-hauled in the Velebit, but with wind coming from the sea, therefore, not Bora!

The Velebit Channel is famous because of the katabatic wind it generates, known as the bora. Given that an episode of Bora is expected tomorrow, we rush through the canal and prolong our ride of a few miles to avoid its effects!

Goli otok, 6-7 June 2025

The aerial view of Goli Otok makes it clear why its name translates into English as "Barren Island" and into French as l’Île Nue. We spent two nights there in the square-shaped harbour to visit the island.

Goli Otok was an internment camp established in 1949 in the aftermath of the Tito–Stalin split. Tito, who became Prime Minister of Yugoslavia in 1945, sought a more independent and regionally influential role for Yugoslav communists, particularly in relation to neighbouring countries such as Albania, Greece, and Bulgaria—an ambition Stalin did not support. Tensions culminated in 1948 when the Communist Information Bureau (Cominform) issued a resolution calling for a change of leadership in Yugoslavia. This led to a rift between Tito’s Yugoslav communists and the pro-Stalin Cominformists.

The Yugoslav communists retained power and established a system of camps and prisons to detain Cominform supporters—the largest of which was the Goli Otok camp, opened in July 1949.

Image source: Republic of Croatia State Geodetic Administration

Today, the island is abandoned and slowly being reclaimed by nature. Yet, Croatians remain acutely aware of their history and the crises that have shaped it—reaching a peak during the Balkan wars of the early 1990s.

Let's have a tour...

Start of the summer sailing, 4 June

 With both of us officially on vacation starting end of May, we took a few days to get the boat ready for a month tour of Croatia. In particular, it was rather difficult to get new parachute flares as regulation requires some special pyrotechnic closet in shops, and none of the ship chandlers contacted in Pula could get any! We finally got them from Rijeka.

On 4 June, late afternoon, we depart from Oula for Banjole, a few miles out. Night at anchor.

Sunrise in Banjole, 5 June

Start of the 2025 season: Pula to Pula through Cres, Krk and Losinj (172 nm)

May 6 - 10, a practice with a crew of newly licensed sailors

This year the season started on the 6th of May with a request from motivated nephews to "experience" sailing after having obtained their sailing licence the year before, the idea being to go through all waters and weather conditions. And the crew got it, because May is the right time to experience unstable weather conditions, associating warm spring days driven by breezes and cold days driven by Bora (catabatic winds) and Yugo! We got it all!

The crew, May 6, departing from Pula

A month later, more of the same! What a mushroom season around here!

 It is now November in Istria and we continue visiting our numerous mushroom spots in turn, first for the interesting walks in the very nice forests, and then for the incredible recipes that we are eating everyday based on all sorts of mushrooms. This time, we have been exploring the are around the airport of Pula, just a few kilometres from home...  

And we found another untouched spot, probably too close to the city for having attracted the mushroom lovers looking for unexplored forests, as there is a fierce competition for foraging...

End of sailing season, September 2024, start of the mushroom season, October 2024!

Back to the blog for an update! The sailing season is over for us this year, after 570 nautical miles around Pula. This is not much compared to previous seasons, and can be explained by the number of friends and visitors we had over the summer, with whom we tended to sail locally, relatively bad weather in June and September, and a lot of work on top of that!   

Anyway, we are Mediterranean sailors now, used to the tricks of mooring in any port under any conditions, even if we still miss the Baltic!

A weekend in Brijuni

Even though our house is located just along the coast to Brijuni National Park, we never stopped there because of the "unrealistic prices" for a night in the Brijuni marina, namely 270€ per night for a boat like Belisama.

Belisama in Brijuni Harbour

Yet, with a full load of people on board, like 8 of us with nephews and grand nephews on board, it made sense since the boat mooring cost includes the 35€ entrance to the National Park.  

So we went in...