Monday 20 July 2020

Koster-Fjällbacka, 18 July 2020

Where preparedness would have made a difference... From Koster to Fjällbacka, we had a 23 nautical miles to go, with head winds. We therefore decided to head to the open sea towards the West to avoid having to tack in the narrow rocky passages along the coast. But we forgot to consider the current in this area of the Skagerrak.



As we were tacking our way, we soon realised that the 3.5 knots SOG (speed over ground) was very low compared to the 10 m/s wind we were experiencing. We realised too late that we should have had a look at the 1.5 knot current that we had right in the head. At there end of the day we had cruised 37 nm!
Besides, the weather was dull, with showers and freezing wind...

Approaching Fjällbacka
One of the big difference when sailing on the West Coast of Sweden compared to the Baltic coast is the high number of boats round, and in particular the high concentration of boats in the marinas. If you arrive after 15:00, forget it, you may have to anchor outside of the harbour and watching out for the first spot freeing-up in the morning. We arrived in the Fjällbacka marina after 18:00. On the guest pier, you could see up to six boats alongside each other. Locals say as a joke that you can cross the marina just by jumping one boat to the next. In great despair after having looked for some hidden spot in shallow water, we decide to anchor at the entrance of the harbour. Next to it is a jetty not belonging to the marina, but our eye is attracted by the "Dockspot" sign on the pier (dockspot is the app that you can use to book in advance a spot in a marina). Finding the spot free at 19:00, we decide to moor there and we call the number indicated for the hamnkaptain. and the hamnkaptain happen to be a French harbour master, happy to see its first French crew for the season. He confirms that we can stay for there next two days!

Belisama on the Dockspot pier
On 19 July, it rains the whole day. We start a canasta game that will bring us late in the evening...

On 20 July around noon, the sun reappear and we therefore start climbing the rock overlooking the village.

View on the marina and the Fjällbacka archipelago
On the picture below, you can see Belisama on the pier.

Fjällbacka from the Vetteberg

You cannot present Fjällbacka without mentioning Camilla Läckberg, the successful crime story writer who was born in Fjällbacka. Most of her novels are located in Fjällbacka and her writing certainly contributed to making Fjällbacka. Look at the video below to get a sense of her novels in Fjällbacka.




En regardant la photo ci-dessus, je ne peux m'empêcher de l'associer au poème du Suédois Thomas Tranströmer (prix nobel de littérature) "Les voiles blanches":
      Je suis sur la montagne et contemple la baie.
      Les bateaux reposent à la surface de l'été.
      « Nous sommes des somnambules. Des lunes à la dérive. »
      Voilà ce que les voiles blanches me disent.

Fjällbacka from the sea, upon departing for the islands of Väderöarna
The 2020 season so far:




1 comment:

  1. m'étendant tout de mon long dans le bateau les yeux tournés vers le ciel, je me laissais aller et dériver lentement au gré de l'eau, quelques fois pendant plusieurs heures, plongé dans mille rêveries confuses mais délicieuses.

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