Muskö is an island that we love for its mushrooms. But Muskö used to be hosting one of the largest military base in Sweden, since the 1950s' when it was constructed, until 2004 when the base was closed. It still hosts a large military camp, and Muskö is across the mainland where the Swedish admiralty is located. With heavy face winds, cold weather, 55 miles to go (to Stockholm) and a late departure because of morning mushroom picking, we decided to go on engine through the narrow passage along the inner shore of the Muskö former submarine base, still being a restricted access sensitive area.